Application Note | Textile Texture
Textile Texture Measurement Using 3D Profilometry
Non-Contact 3D Roughness and Texture of Silk and Denim Without Deforming the Fabric

Research & Experimental Testing
Duanjie Li
Visual Design & Editorial
Andrew Shore
Introduction
Textiles go through a series of manufacturing processes and physical and chemical treatments to obtain desired functional properties. For example, cotton experiences purification, preliminary process, coloration, and mechanical/chemical finishing to develop its full textile potential. Roughness and texture of the fabric surface play an important role in its end use, such as the appearance, performance and feel. Special functional fabrics for outdoor clothing are treated to be waterproof and yet breathable.
Importance of Surface Texture Measurement for Fabrics
A better understanding of the surface texture, consistency and patterns of the fabrics allows the best selection of processing and control measures. Traditional stylus-based profilometers determine the surface morphology of the coatings by sliding in contact across the measured surface, which may deform the soft fabric and induce inaccurate measurement. The NANOVEA 3D Non-Contact Profilometers utilize chromatic confocal technology with unmatched capability to provide a comprehensive analysis of the surface features of fabrics, making them an ideal tool for reliable product inspection and quality control.
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Measurement Objective
The surface texture of two fabrics, namely silk and denim, were measured and compared using the NANOVEA ST400 optical profilometer. We would like to showcase the capability of the NANOVEA optical profilometer in the comprehensive study of the textiles for different applications.

Results and Discussion
Silk fibers have a thickness of 5 to 10 μm and a smooth soft texture. Being one of the strongest natural fibers, silk is an ideal material for lightweight fabrics that provides a smooth and luxurious finish. In comparison, denim jeans were originally designed for cowboys and miners due to the durability and strength of the denim fabric. It is woven in a twill manner to form a slanting textured fabric surface.
The 2D and 3D Views of the silk and denim samples are compared in Fig. 2 and Fig. 3, respectively. Fig. 4 shows the false color view and statistics of the silk and denim samples. The silk fabric sample shows a much smoother surface with fine threads. The Abbott-Firestone curve shows that the height variation of the silk sample is around 70 µm, leading to a low surface roughness Sa of ~17 µm. In comparison, the denim sample exhibits a much coarser texture. The directional floating set of thick yarns are designed to absorb the abrasion. Even if wear and tear takes place on the floating yarns, there are more yarns underneath that keep the strength of the fabric. The surface height variation of the denim sample is ~350 µm and the roughness Sa is 58 µm.



| ISO 25178 height parameter | Silk | Denim |
|---|---|---|
| Sa | 16.7 µm | 0.0587 mm |
| Sq | 21.1 µm | 0.0793 mm |
| Sp | 77.9 µm | 0.392 mm |
| Sv | 88.1 µm | 0.504 mm |
| Sz | 166 µm | 0.896 mm |
| Ssk | −0.382 | −1.26 |
| Sku | 3.27 | 6.12 |
Table 1: Surface roughness of the silk and denim samples (from Fig. 4).
Conclusion
The surface texture of the silk and denim samples were compared using the NANOVEA ST400 non-contact profilometer. We would like to showcase that this measurement provides a useful tool in both development phases and quality control of the fabrics to improve the look, performance, or feel of the finished textile or clothing. The analysis software provides measurements such as 3D view, roughness, directional texture and many other options, enabling users to have a comprehensive understanding of the fabric surface texture.
The data shown here represents only a portion of the calculations available in the analysis software. NANOVEA Profilometers measure virtually any surface in fields including Semiconductor, Microelectronics, Solar, Fiber Optics, Automotive, Aerospace, Metallurgy, Machining, Coatings, Pharmaceutical, Biomedical, Environmental and many others.
Frequently Asked Questions About Fabric Texture Measurement
Why measure fabric texture without contact?
Stylus profilometers slide across the surface and can deform a soft fabric, giving inaccurate results. A chromatic confocal optical pen measures height without touching the textile.
What does surface texture tell you about a fabric?
Roughness and texture affect a fabric’s appearance, performance and feel. Understanding texture, consistency and patterns supports the choice of processing and control measures.
How did silk and denim compare?
Silk showed a much smoother surface with fine threads: Sa 16.7 µm, Sz 166 µm. Denim, woven in twill with a directional floating set of thick yarns, was much coarser: Sa 0.0587 mm, Sz 0.896 mm.
What analyses are available?
The same scan gives 2D profiles, 3D views, false-color maps, height distributions and Abbott-Firestone curves, ISO 25178 roughness and directional texture.
Where is this used?
In fabric development and in quality control, to improve the look, performance or feel of finished textiles and clothing.
Which instrument was used?
The NANOVEA ST400 3D non-contact optical profilometer.



